The end of last October was exciting as I knew I would be spending at least a few months in Myrthios, whereas before I had spent the usual 2/3 weeks; so I was feeling very blessed.
Arrival in the early hours in Plakias with my then husband during June 1988 was my introduction to this magical and spiritual place. We returned year after year, then I returned with a friend, then for several years have returned alone (but never lonely).
So arriving in Myrthios around 4.30 am to stay for several months was SO special. After a brief sleep I was awakened by sunshine and the sight of the Libyan Sea - who needs more?
Of course there are few tourists after the end of October probably because there are no direct flights. However, it is not that difficult to change at Athens! Apparently the weather from October can be unreliable, and I have been assured by friends that I was extremely fortunate to have so little rain. In fact I remember only about four rainy days during my stay. Otherwise it was bright, warm, but very cold at night. However, I think this was only in comparison to the warm days and the fact that my gorgeous little house relied upon oil filled radiators, which occasionally I had to hug at night!
Panorama taverna stayed open I think until around early December and they had a wonderful log fire there, as well of course as the fantastic food. The menu is limited when compared to the summer, but the meats, fish and vegetables were so appetizing.
Sifi`s in Plakias was open all through the winter, as was a souvlaki restaurant close to Plakias Market shop. Joe`s bar was open as well and was a very jolly place to be on New Year`s Eve! This was after dinner at Sifi`s and a party at On the Rocks with fireworks at midnight. Just typing this brings it all back to me so clearly - I was travelling alone but could not possibly have felt lonely.
I feel very honoured to be member 191 of Europe`s most southerly library. I adore books, reading and all that goes with this very exciting way to spend hours of relaxation, but even if you just want a glass of wine or coffee and a very sociable chat with whoever happens to be there, and it is quite a busy but obviously laid-back place, then Plakias Library close to the Youth Hostel is THE place to be. Run by fun loving people and offering an amazing choice of reading matter and DVDs, I cannot remember the opening hours but it`s about four times a week in winter. I was requesting French literature, and was told that it had been put away (in a large wooden trunk) for winter. However, I was told to help myself to a glass of wine (donation of around 1e I believe) whilst the trunk was opened and I had a wonderful time wandering through the literature therein. I forget the number of languages for whom they cater, but it`s unbelievable.
The Post Office is somewhere else where one meets one`s friends whilst hunting through boxes of mail. A very sociable time can be had, and now when I hear someone complain about not receiving their post I smile to myself and remember those mornings of special delight at Plakias post office - does it really matter when the post arrives?
The large supermarket on entering Plakias is open all year and Plakias Market was open some of the time. I was though very fortunate to also have three little shops open in Myrthios. Giorgia`s offered fresh bread and her home-made feta plus other tinned goods, and Maria`s kananeion was always there for a coffee and some delightful wine. Carol`s shop was open for much of the winter offering superb raki, wine, honey, herbs, jewellery - could a girl wish for anything more?
The only decision I seemed to struggle with was -` shall I get up early enough to catch the 7am bus to Rethymno?` The answer was generally - no, but be aware that if you are relying on public transport this is the only bus during the winter months. It leaves Myrthios at 7 and Plakias at 7.30. Saturday is by far the more civilised day to travel on a bus as the times change to 9 from M and 9.30 from P. Guess which day I usually chose?
Greek lessons were available at the `village hall` in Plakias. These were wonderfully run classes and I could not believe that anyone would want to come from Rethymno to Plakias to try to teach beginners the intricacies of the Greek alphabet! There were also classes for the more advanced student. I am sure this must have been the only adult education class in the world where a dog almost joined in - well, she/he was tethered just outside, but had to suffer the agonising attempts of a load of eager students trying to get to grips with some of the more interesting aspects of Greek pronunciation. There was much hilarity, but we also learnt a lot.
The Greek New Year which happens on 6th January was another reason for celebration. After the service at Myrthios church the priest and congregation go down to the sea at Plakias where the cross is thrown into the sea, and all the young boys from the village dive in for it.
Living in Myrthios was very special, although I made almost daily trips to Plakias. Of course there is the choice between the footpath down through the olive groves which is no longer a mountaineering adventure, but a more sedate trip with the most spectacular views. The road is the way to go if you would like a lift down to Plakias! Whenever I decided that a longer walk was what I wanted I could be sure that someone would give me a lift to Plakias and this was generally from a local Cretan who kindly said - Plakias? - and I said `ne parakalo` - what followed was a wonderful `conversation` between the delightfully kind Cretans who could not speak English (a dying breed) and me with my newly acquired knowledge of the Greek alphabet. Better conversations were had than often with a person who actually understood either language!
Gosh, I`ve rambled so I will stop now.
Thanks to this forum for letting me tell you about my very special time - there is more if you`d like it, but understand you`ve had enough!
Cecile
