In the travel section of this morning's Guardian, there's a full page article about the taverna at Agia Fotini. It sounds as though it's a good place to stay if you want total seclusion: 'It is a good 30-minute drive, on unlit mountain roads, to the nearest sizeable town, Spili; less far, but a good distance, to the taverna at Ligres'. I didn't know the Meltemi winds blew from the south, though!