Plakias Forums
Plakias => Plakias => Topic started by: philj on February 07, 2003, 03:43:21 PM
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My girlfriend and I visited Plakias for the first time in July last year. Before the holiday I sought the (very helpful) advice of contributors to this site on what to expect, where to eat/visit etc and never got around to posting my own thoughts back here. So, with no particular organisation, here goes…
It is no exaggeration to say that those two weeks in Plakias last summer were the best two weeks of my life. Partly this was due to who I went on holiday with (this was the first time I had been abroad with a girlfriend) but the wonderful setting of Plakias was very important too. The town was exactly what we were looking for in a location. Not so quiet that there was limited choice of where to go and places to eat, and not to raucous that we were surrounded by clubs in some sort of 18-30s hellhole. Plakias was a perfect balance, small enough to be friendly and offer peace and relaxation whenever it was required but offering a large variety of tavernas, delightful places to eat and visit along with a spectacular landscape.
We stayed at the Costas Chrissoula (sorry about the spelling but you know where I mean) apartments. Being more ‘pool people’ than beach we found the accommodation more than acceptable as we were able to virtually roll out of bed and straight into the water. The rooms (as expected) were basic but very clean and all the staff very friendly (a special mention to the mercurial Dimitris behind the bar). The pool might have been a little small but this is clutching at straws when trying to criticise because there were rarely more than two or three people in it at most times of the day.
The main thing that will stay with me about Plakias is the wonderful food that we enjoyed there each night. We did not have a single bad or overpriced meal for the whole of the two weeks. Of course some places were better than others but all could be graded in the good to excellent bracket. I think it was seven or eight days before we went back to the same restaurant twice and we left at the end of the holiday still with several menus unsampled. Again from memory, the average price we paid for 2 starters, 2 main courses and a bottle/jug of retsina was around the equivalent of £13.
Our favourite establishment was recommended to us by Allan on this very site a few weeks before we went on holiday and were it not for him we certainly would never have ventured to the Secret Nest. Set back from the main front the Secret Nest is smaller and even more obviously family run than the other, more prominent eateries. I think it was our third night when we set off to find this place and it seemed to take ages to locate and involve an awful lot of wandering along unlit dirt tracks. (Upon later inspection in daylight I have no idea why it seemed such an effort to locate that first time as it is only a stones through from the main road and several signs point the way. I can only put it down to disorientation and a significant number of pre diner drinks). Two things particularly stick in my mind when thinking about the Secret Nest. I can still taste the amazingly tasty but simple fried squid splashed with fresh lemon juice that I enjoyed on both visits and the fresh, whole fish that I was called into the kitchen to select myself for grilling. There may be restaurants in Plakias with better views, comfier chairs and a wider selection of drinks but nowhere beats the Secret Nest for the quality and freshness of its seafood and its raw, basic charm.
It was amusing to read on this site about the departure of the First Choice rep before the end of the season. We did attend the (overlong) welcome meeting but were made to feel like criminals for not supporting a subsequent quiz night. We did our best to stay out of here way and thankfully were never in desperate need of her services. However, her bark was very definitely worse than her bite.
Plakias in July was hot. It wasn’t so much during the day when sometimes there was a slightly cooling breeze (none of the virtual hurricanes I had feared) but during the night. We had a ground floor apartment (no air conditioning, heavy curtain across the door blacking the breeze) and the nights were difficult to tolerate due to the discomfort that comes with perspiring while trying to sleep off too much good food and drink. A frozen bottle of water taken out of the freezer at midnight would be lukewarm inside a couple of hours. This is possibly the only thing I don’t miss about Crete although once it did cause me to get up at 5am and walk along the beech as the sun came up over the hills with not a soul around. A good experience that made the hot nights worthwhile.
Only on three days did we stray from the town. Once for a walk along the road to Souda Bay (can anyone tell me more about a war story an elderly acquaintance told me about a submarine that evacuated allied troops from there in WWII?) which was very quiet and picturesque. Souda makes a bit of a change from the Plakias beech and the walk is manageable (just!) in the Cretan summer.
In our second week we went on the organised trip to Santorini. The island is spectacular with hundreds of coulourful buildings perched on top of a sheer cliff face. Words cannot do the place justice but it is so far away and took over 5 hours to get there by boat. The ship was like a mini cruise liner and was a little to crowded for my tastes and it did sometimes feel like we were a large herd of animals being transported somewhere, being told when to eat and where to go. Once on the island we were able to get away by ourselves and the experience of being on and seeing Santorini made the journey there and back worthwhile.
The second organised trip was the Cretan night. I was not hopeful of an enjoyable evening and imagined more herds of people being force fed an American tourists perception of Greece. My fears were initially realised as we boarded a minibus and then joined others on a larger coach for an over long journey to the large establishment where the event was to be held. Again we were herded around and directed to a table of eight. My girlfriend and I joined six Germans who knew each other and spoke no English. However, large (and I mean large) amounts of unlimited red and white wine flowed, the food was good and eventually I was up dancing. Ultimately the experience was a really good one, even if I did disgrace myself (like others) by being ‘ill’ on the coach on the way back.
Looking back it might have been nice to do a bit more exploring and a bit more adventure. Getting a bus to Rethemon (spelling again?) was something we intended to do but never got around to but the sheer heat made us very lazy and the pool very tempting. From other posts around I know that July is not the month to go trekking around Crete on foot.
This post has already turned out to be longer than I imagined. As you can see, I had a great time in Plakias and have so many fond memories of the place and the whole holiday that come out when I start speaking or writing about it. Apologies if I have rambled a little. Plakias and Crete is about so much more than can be covered here and I have many more memories and little experiences that have not cropped up above. If anyone has a question or wants me to elaborate more on any of the above I will be happy to do so.
Phil J
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Hi Phil,
It's good to hear from another Plakias convert! Your memories brought a lot of places and memories to my mind - looking forward even more to getting back to Plakias in early June for our first visit of this year.
I'm not going to comment on every aspect of your post, which I really enjoyed reading, but I will say:
Totally agree with you about the Secret Nest. It's not the sort of taverna you could visit every night, as the menu is limited. But what they have is excellent quality, perfectly cooked.
I'll be interested to check out the rep situation this year. We usually go with Olympic - and for the first time ever, theirs wasn't much good either! Be great to get some feedback soon from regulars who are setting off as soon as the season begins (early April for Olympic).
I sometimes feel guilty for not exploring more of Crete. But once I get to the resort, contentment sets in, and the beach by day and tavernas at night keep me more than happy. Over the years I have seen a few places. The Sumaria Gorge is worth a visit - and Reythimno is not a major effort, and interesting to look around. Don't miss the market, the fort, and a relaxing drink by the harbour.
In all the years I've been going, I have managed to avoid the hottest times, May and September being my normal spots. I have experienced a few very hot nights. I usually get up if I can't sleep - Meltemi is open till morning, and it's a great place to sit outside and drink a cool beer and wait for the sun!
Thanks again for your thoughts - see you in Plakias, 'cause I'm sure you'll be back!
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All this talk about the Secret Nest taverna reminds me that the first visit I made to a Greek Island was on a Sunmed walking holiday in 1990. On the first night the leader took us all to a taverna: the Secret Nest. I presume they had to do the rounds of all the tavernas so as not to upset anyone, but I can say I didn't find it very good. I think there was a choice of two main dishes and I ended up with some sort of unappetising stew . I have never been back to this taverna since, and have had far better meals in all the other tavernas in Plakias that I have eaten in - my favourite now being the Lysseos . From what I have read in other people's posts though things must have improved - perhaps it has a new owner.
Greecemad.
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Once for a walk along the road to Souda Bay (can anyone tell me more about a war story an elderly acquaintance told me about a submarine that evacuated allied troops from there in WWII?) which was very quiet and picturesque.
Hi Phil,
The evacuation of Allied troops from the Plakias area (Preveli) by submarine is a well known but not well documented story.
You might like to look at these two links that mention it:
The Cretan Runner (http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/the_cretan.htm)
The history of Preveli monastery (http://www.preveli.org/files/moni/en10.htm)
If you are feeling a little more adventurous on your next visit to Plakias, you might consider this (http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/war.htm) for a day out. (You will need a hire car). Take plenty of hankies.
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More information about The Battle For Crete (http://www.nzhistory.net.nz/Gallery/crete/index.htm).
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Hi all
The book " Cretan Runner" by George Psychoundakis can be bought at the supermarkets in Plakias as can W. Stanley Moss's book "Ill Met by Moonlight" which tells the story of the kidnap of Genral Kreipe by British troops, and "Flowers of Rethimnon" by Lew Lind about the Battle of Crete.
Karen
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Is it still Nikos Papadakis runnin´the Secret Nest?
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Once for a walk along the road to Souda Bay (can anyone tell me more about a war story an elderly acquaintance told me about a submarine that evacuated allied troops from there in WWII?) which was very quiet and picturesque.
Hi Phil,
The evacuation of Allied troops from the Plakias area (Preveli) by submarine is a well known but not well documented story.
You might like to look at these two links that mention it:
The Cretan Runner ([url]http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/the_cretan.htm[/url])
The history of Preveli monastery ([url]http://www.preveli.org/files/moni/en10.htm[/url])
If you are feeling a little more adventurous on your next visit to Plakias, you might consider this ([url]http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/war.htm[/url]) for a day out. (You will need a hire car). Take plenty of hankies.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=245\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Sad news: The Cretan Runner, Georgos Psychoudakis, is dead.
One of the Andartes in the recent history and writer of The Cretan Runner passed away on 29. januar 2006 at the age of 85 years.
Leen.
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Once for a walk along the road to Souda Bay (can anyone tell me more about a war story an elderly acquaintance told me about a submarine that evacuated allied troops from there in WWII?) which was very quiet and picturesque.
Hi Phil,
The evacuation of Allied troops from the Plakias area (Preveli) by submarine is a well known but not well documented story.
You might like to look at these two links that mention it:
The Cretan Runner ([url]http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/the_cretan.htm[/url])
The history of Preveli monastery ([url]http://www.preveli.org/files/moni/en10.htm[/url])
If you are feeling a little more adventurous on your next visit to Plakias, you might consider this ([url]http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/war.htm[/url]) for a day out. (You will need a hire car). Take plenty of hankies.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=245\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Sad news: The Cretan Runner, Georgos Psychoudakis, is dead.
One of the Andartes in the recent history and writer of The Cretan Runner passed away on 29. januar 2006 at the age of 85 years.
Leen.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5462\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Sad news.
I have read 'The Cretan Runner' twice and have an amazing respect for Georgos and his compatriats.
george g...
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firstly ..secret nest? i thought it was closed last year did it open later??
second, how sad it is to hear of George's death, we knew he wasn't well last year when a friend of ours saw him, but i suppose it comes to us all
The Cretan Runner is a superb book and a must for anyone with an interest in WW2 and/or Crete
What makes the book so special for me, is that it's based all around the South (west) coast, and we know the places he mentions so well
He talks about the German guard post in Plakias and how the germans had to use mules as there was no road, about smuggling weapons in Spilli, submarines dropping off SOE agents in Rodakino. Well written, highly recommended
(http://harribobs.smugmug.com/photos/56989928-L.jpg)
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firstly ..secret nest? i thought it was closed last year did it open later??
NO, it wasn't open mid September when I left, and it would have been a bit late to open then anyway.
Although they were letting rooms.
george g...
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firstly ..secret nest? i thought it was closed last year did it open later??
NO, it wasn't open mid September when I left, and it would have been a bit late to open then anyway.
Although they were letting rooms.
george g...
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5476\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
i have just seen the date on those first posts! FEB 2003
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Once for a walk along the road to Souda Bay (can anyone tell me more about a war story an elderly acquaintance told me about a submarine that evacuated allied troops from there in WWII?) which was very quiet and picturesque.
Hi Phil,
The evacuation of Allied troops from the Plakias area (Preveli) by submarine is a well known but not well documented story.
You might like to look at these two links that mention it:
The Cretan Runner ([url]http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/the_cretan.htm[/url])
The history of Preveli monastery ([url]http://www.preveli.org/files/moni/en10.htm[/url])
If you are feeling a little more adventurous on your next visit to Plakias, you might consider this ([url]http://home.freeuk.com/johndillon/war.htm[/url]) for a day out. (You will need a hire car). Take plenty of hankies.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=245\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Sad news: The Cretan Runner, Georgos Psychoudakis, is dead.
One of the Andartes in the recent history and writer of The Cretan Runner passed away on 29. januar 2006 at the age of 85 years.
Leen.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5462\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Sad news indeed.
What a brave, hard man.
Still, it's good that he lived until 85.
We should celebrate that he lived.
I shall drink to that.
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Sad news indeed.
What a brave, hard man.
Still, it's good that he lived until 85.
We should celebrate that he lived.
I shall drink to that.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5482\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
very well said mate
i'll have a raki to him in may
" a little petrol for the engine"
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My In-laws came over last weekend and they gave me a cutting from the Daily Mail.
A large obituary for George, nice to see the English nationals have recognised such a great man.
george g...
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a good write up for george from the guardian
the cretan runner (http://www.guardian.co.uk/obituaries/story/0,,1714094,00.html)
and this from stelous jackson ( from the interkriti site) i'd never read the rough guide btw
"Just by way of a couple of interests of mine; on a recent(ish) en-hoof jaunt to Asi Gonia - birthplace of George Psychoundakis - brandishing a copy of the 'Rough Guide to Crete' in hand, I asked the whole male population (it seemed) and most of the females of this grand village, gathered, for no apparent reason, in the local kafeneion, whether it might be true (as the Rough Guide alleges) they consider Psychoundakis as a British "lackey; that "GP was not particularly popular in the village from where he hailed" (shame to finish that sentence, but I had to sometime!).
The 'afentikos' (owner) of the cafe, stood up and asked the assembled: An earth-shattering, timber-cracking and resounding "ochi!" (no!), reverberated from the echoing interiors and the hills still talk in whispers of that day (the Hills of Rochester, Kent, were, of course on holiday and this all came as a bit of a shock to them); eagles hovered, daring to squawk their piece and shatter the peace...er...(that's enough ridiculous similes (ed))
I was treated to the drinks I had already dispatched and a couple more by said owner who will have more reason than most to grieve for the fabulous, heroic and quite irrepressible. Kirios Georgios Psychoundakis.
What a great village; what a great man! This is what 'Crete' means!
"Here's tae us! Wha's like us? Damn few, and their all deid! More's the pity."
Tsaksonakis, S
Lest we forget"
well said mate
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i'd never read the rough guide btw
Shame on you. If you read the latest edition then you will find my name in it
Well - you will if you read it for hours on end and in the very small print among hundreds of others is an acknowledment for some information I gave them.
Ironically - reading your message - it was for my rewriting the passage about the new road out up the mountains to Hora Sfakia from Assigonia.
John R
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This bit bothered me:
John Murray published the first English edition, but it was pirated by Greek publishers who sold many copies for which George received no royalties.
That would be the Efstathiadis (sp?) edition which I bought in Plakias market some years or decades ago, I suppose. I feel I should now go out and buy the Penguin so at least George's estate gets some royalties.
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This bit bothered me:
John Murray published the first English edition, but it was pirated by Greek publishers who sold many copies for which George received no royalties.
That would be the Efstathiadis (sp?) edition which I bought in Plakias market some years or decades ago, I suppose. I feel I should now go out and buy the Penguin so at least George's estate gets some royalties.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5574\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
i have a few of their books, which look like scans of the originals... great if you're never likely to get the original but....
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i'd never read the rough guide btw
Shame on you. If you read the latest edition then you will find my name in it
Well - you will if you read it for hours on end and in the very small print among hundreds of others is an acknowledment for some information I gave them.
Ironically - reading your message - it was for my rewriting the passage about the new road out up the mountains to Hora Sfakia from Assigonia.
John R
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5573\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
John...i'll buy it just to see your name..honest
irony and new roads
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This bit bothered me:
John Murray published the first English edition, but it was pirated by Greek publishers who sold many copies for which George received no royalties.
That would be the Efstathiadis (sp?) edition which I bought in Plakias market some years or decades ago, I suppose. I feel I should now go out and buy the Penguin so at least George's estate gets some royalties.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5574\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
i have a few of their books, which look like scans of the originals... great if you're never likely to get the original but....
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5578\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I naively assumed, in my callow youth, that a Greek publisher would actually pay royalties to a Greek author ...
BTW I tossed down a raki in George's memory last night. God it's vile stuff isn't it. :'(
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BTW I tossed down a raki in George's memory last night. God it's vile stuff isn't it. :'(
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=5583\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
it never tastes the same outside of crete!
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'God it's vile stuff isn't it.'
Chuck a large slug of Raki into your Lemsip when you've got a cold, helps you sleep!!
george g...