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Author Topic: Traditional Greek Tavernas  (Read 13195 times)

Offline kayisi

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Traditional Greek Tavernas
« on: July 01, 2012, 06:08:55 PM »
We will be visiting Plakias for the first time at the beginning of September although we have been going to the Islands for over 30 years. I have read most of the reviews about the eating options by fellow travelers on this forum but so far haven't found the info I'm looking for. Maybe someone can help me. By the way we won't have a car and don't fancy tramping up and down hills in an evening to get to/from a taverna.

Now the question. Are there any traditional tavernas in Plakias, ie where the food has been slow cooked during the day and is 'on show' in the evening in a traditional 'salmonella cabinet' (it's an old fashioned term I grew up with when first visiting the islands as that was about all there was then, ie before tavernas got posh and started calling themselves restaurants) where after choosing your starter from the cabinet or sometimes even a menu you go into the innards of the establishment and point at what you want?

Haven't seen any mention of this in the posts I've read so far so I'm assuming, probably quite wrongly, your choices are all off the menu 'unseen'.

Am I right or just loosing faith in my old age.

Offline Arnaki

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2012, 09:42:44 AM »
Hi Kayisi

There are plenty of tavernas with these cabinets, particularly those near the harbour (Mousses, Sophia, Gorgona come to mind).  The kitchens are small, and I haven't come across anywhere where you are invited into the kitchen  (except to choose the fish).  Mousses has a very wide choice, and it is always available and piping hot, making me think that at least some of the food is pre-prepared and microwaved - but very good nonetheless.

I think that inviting customers into the kitchen happens only rarely these days - probably against EU regulations.

Enjoy your stay - 8 days and counting for us.  Mmmm - just thinking about gyros pitta and retsina in the souvlaki hut....

Kali oreksi!

Arnaki

Offline Bertie

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2012, 08:32:52 PM »
I generally eat at Sofia and Gorgona specifically because they show their dishes and I always choose from something from the window. It rarely fails to satisfy.
My only exception is when I want Giros and then I go to Sifis - always good food and very amenable service. :-X

Offline kayisi

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2012, 08:41:59 AM »
I'm pleased to hear that 'traditional' kitchens do still exist in Plakias as I was getting a bit worried by the silence on this subject from the Plakias old hands.  Thanks Arnaki and Bertie for reassuring me that all's not lost in that respect.

Since you mentioned retsina Arnaki would it be in order to ask you and everyone else for that matter if Kortaki is widely available as it seems, on other islands at least, to be disappearing at am alarming rate.  In particular the crown cap 50cl bottles are almost a rare breed with tavernas preferring the fancier (and more expensive) cork enclosed bottles. 

Any clues on the retsina situation please? 

Offline Mike G

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2012, 01:10:34 PM »
The half litre crown cap retsina bottles are widely available in supermarkets for about €1.40. I usually eat in Mousses and they have a "barrel" retsina (€2.50 for half a litre) which, like their "barrel"  conventional white, is very good (less convinced by their red).

Over the 25 years I have been visiting Greece the retsina seems to have been becoming less "resiny". This may be owing to the fact that it is less resiny or to my less sensitive taste buds as I get older.

The tavernas by the harbour (Mousses, Sofia, Gorgona, Korali) all have display cabinets with some dishes on show as Bertie has said but it isn't exactly viewing the food in the kitchin.

Mike

Offline kayisi

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2012, 04:13:38 PM »
The half litre crown cap retsina bottles are widely available in supermarkets for about €1.40. I usually eat in Mousses and they have a "barrel" retsina (€2.50 for half a litre) which, like their "barrel"  conventional white, is very good (less convinced by their red).

Over the 25 years I have been visiting Greece the retsina seems to have been becoming less "resiny". This may be owing to the fact that it is less resiny or to my less sensitive taste buds as I get older.

The tavernas by the harbour (Mousses, Sofia, Gorgona, Korali) all have display cabinets with some dishes on show as Bertie has said but it isn't exactly viewing the food in the kitchin.


Mike

What a good pointer Mike.  Barrel retsina says a lot to me and I know what you mean about retsina becoming less resiny.  The reason is probably twofold.  Once we get to (or are approaching) the old f-rt stage the taste of things do change.  There's also been a move in Greece away from retsina retsinas as they think it is more 'modern' and hip to have less resin!  By the way I was speaking of myself when referring to the old f-rt stage and not you so please don't take offence.

If barrel retsina isn't available I always try and go for Kortaki as thats what I was weaned on in my early island days, but truth be told I'll drink a bucket of any old retsina you throw at me.  In the old days you needed a bucket full of something in order to face trying to get to sleep in a pokey, stifling room on what was very often a 20 year old camp bed.  How things have changed!

If you are around at the beginning of September look out for a moustachioed retsina slurping oap in Mousses!  Cheers.

Offline Laura

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2012, 08:17:34 PM »
Hi

In my experience I would keep away from food on show in cabinets, these are just tourist traps and most Greeks I saw eating out were mainly seated at taverna that had nothing on show, ie just the sign outside lettting you know it was a taverna, no bill boards or pictures.

Stick to the discreat ones if you want good food.

Offline stavros

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2012, 08:53:54 PM »
Many tavernas everywhere now have the cabinets, and although there are tourists in those places, there will also be Greeks - just usually later on. Taverna food is now much better with far more choice than back in the days of "mono kotopolo". Rabbit stifado..mmmmm.

The really great Medusa place on the back road did a stuffed squid which Mrs Stavros described one of the best dishes she has ever eaten (this from a big seafood fan.)

Last year Paligrammos (sp) at the east end of the beach was doing a live music evening one night a week  - mixture of Kritiki, Laiki and Rembetika which was fun.
Visiting Greece and Crete since 1984

Offline Arnaki

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2012, 10:12:34 PM »
Hi Kayisi,  There are a couple of Cretan retsinas in bottles, as well as retsina and other wines available in water bottles in the supermarkets for a couple of euros for 1.5L.  They are all worth a try - the bottled Xanion is a bit musty tasting, but we like the Ekavi.  We can get Kourtaki in the UK so tend to give it a miss on holiday.

We usually go in August and eat late, so usually find that there are plenty of Greeks eating at the restaurants.  One unusual and heavenly dish is the pork monasteriou at Mousses - pork with dates.  Give it a miss if you don't like your main course sweet, though!

Do check the fly count in the cabinets when you are out and about during the day....  It may make you want to eat fresh food, but you did ask!

We are going next week but will be returning on 28 August for a week, so we might see you in early September?

Hi Stavros, we enjoyed the music night at Paligremnos in 2010, but they did not have it on when we were there in August last year, which was a pity.  However we do have a CD as a memory of the evening, and I play it particularly when I am cooking gouvetsi or stifado.  The rabbit stifado at Paligremnos is very good.  And the size of the serving of gigantes is ... well .... gigantic - (now don't go mentioning old f-rts).

Arnaki
 

Offline Mike G

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #9 on: July 05, 2012, 01:53:46 PM »

  By the way I was speaking of myself when referring to the old f-rt stage and not you so please don't take offence.

If you are around at the beginning of September look out for a moustachioed retsina slurping oap in Mousses!  Cheers.
[/quote]
Hello Kayisi,

No offence taken! I plead guilty to at least one part of the term "old f-rt" if not both.

I won't be in Plakias until next year and am looking forward to the barrel wines!

Mike

Offline kayisi

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #10 on: July 05, 2012, 03:34:25 PM »
Thanks for the replies everyone.  Can't wait to sample the what sounds like a laid back Plakias feel and also whatever barrel retsina I can find plus some tasty traditional Greek cooking.  Just the mention of Gigantes and rabbit stew makes me salivate.  See you soon.

Anymore suggestions would also be most welcome.

Offline draper10

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2012, 03:59:00 PM »
Had stuffed squid at Atlantis last month and it was beautiful. They also do a mixed meze starter for 2 which includes pickled (I think) squid which was great as well!

Offline Bertie

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2012, 10:07:38 AM »
I think Laura's got it completely wrong. It's the "discreet" tavernas which are the tourist traps.
I still go for the open kitchen and seeing what I will eat before choosing every time. And I don't believe local avoid the open kitchens, they just eat at different time from we "tourists".

Offline kayisi

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2012, 08:24:44 PM »
I must agree with you Bertie.  In my view - and it is only my view - if the taverna owner is proud of his/her home cooked grub they are happy to put it on show to the world. 

I wonder if Laura was referring to the display cabinets some places use to show off their meat and fish to the passing trade?  I always give them a miss.

Offline Richard

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Re: Traditional Greek Tavernas
« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2014, 04:40:51 PM »
I agree that retsina is a lot less 'resiny' than the early 90s, to my taste at least. I wondered was I simply becoming accustomed to the taste but I don't think so, not entirely at least.

We have eaten at pretty well all the tavernas in a Plakiaa, including hose with the salmonella tanks, thankfully with no ill-effects (well, not from the food at least, but occasionally from overly-enthusiastic retsina sampling!)